Near-ubiquitous in Japanese cuisine, dashi ranks alongside rice and soy sauce in prominence -- it is difficult to find a Japanese meal which does not include at least of one of these three ingredients. Dashi is to Japanese cuisine what court-bouillon is to French; it is essentially a fish stock, made from boiled kombu-enriched water and the shavings of smoked and dried skipjack tuna, called katusobushi (鰹節).
Add water to large sauce pan. Add pre-cut kombu to water, submerging with a spoon, and then apply medium high heat.
Shave a block of katsuobushi on your kitchen's kezuriki (けずりき).
Collect the kezurikatsuo (けずりかつお - the katsuobushi shavings) from the kezuriki's drawer.
Remove the kombu and then cut the heat. Add the kezurikatsuo. The flakes should settle under the water.
After a few minutes (no more than three), pour the dashi carefully through a sieve or filter. The boiled kezurikatsuo may be saved and dried out to be applied as flavorful flakes to dishes (especially rice).
Umami-rich dashi.
Preparing the Katsuobushi:
Katsuo (skipjack tuna) has been caught and eaten in Japan since ancient times.
It is prized for its tender flesh, which, unfortunately, spoils easily. As a result, the southern coastal cities of Japan which specialized in catching the fish had to come up with ways to preserve it for its trip inland: some methods involved burying the fish in rice (the origin of sushi); other methods called for pickling the tuna; and yet others called for the fish to be smoked, thus drying out the flesh into very hard blocks.
The fish is caught and gutted. It is split into quarters lengthwise, and the bones are removed by hand. The fillets are laid in rows and immersed in hot water, and then coated in a paste to keep them from cracking while smoking in the smokehouse.
Katsuobushi which is meant to make dashi undergoes a near-six month process of drying out the fillets in smokehouses and under the sun in order to draw out all the moisture.
The result is a rock-hard block of tuna, literally the "hardest food" on earth. These are shaved like blocks of wood using an instrument called a kezuriki, and the shavings (kezurikatsuo) are used to make dashi.
Histories and Oddities
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Friday, June 29, 2018
Monday, June 25, 2018
Huevos High-Life and Sausage
Also known as a bird's nest, the best incarnation of this recipe can be found in El Practicon.
Los Huevos
Almost any kind of bread can be used, but the best kind are thick and knotted, for a hollow or nest for the egg will need to be scooped out.
Hollow out a bowl or nest for the egg.
Add olive oil to a saute pan, 1 inch deep. Apply medium-high heat. The oil is ready when a chunk of bread is thrown into the oil and becomes golden brown after 30 seconds. When oil is ready, place bread in the oil, and then quickly crack a single egg over the bowl. The eggs are ready when the whites are done -- the bottom of the bread will be burnt; this is intentional and meant to add to the flavor. Once again, the style and kind of bread will influence how the dish turns out.
The Sausage
Sausages should first be poked with a knife.
Then the sausages are placed in boiling water for 4 - 8 minutes, depending on size. When they are nearly done, add canola or vegetable oil to a saute pan, coating the bottom and sides. Apply medium-high heat to the saute pan.
Once the sausages are done in the boiling water, add to hot saute pan.
Brown on all sides, coating the pan and sausages in the hot oil.